I drove from Saintes past Cognac, Rochfort and around Bordeaux.  I was heading for Lacanau, a place my friend Chad had told me about.  He surfed there a few years ago and a remembered the name when I saw it on the map.

When I arrived the sun was shining and I saw nice sized clean surf rolling in.  There is no better feeling that that.  I got changed and had the first surf of the trip and it was great to get into the water.  I did learn how un-paddle fit i am though.  It is tough to get out at a beach break and it’ll take a week of surfing before I am properly paddle fit.

Everything is now so much better.

After the surf, I checked into my first camp site and got a great pitch under the pine trees about 5 minuted from the beach.

Monday 29th Sept.

Had an amazing day.  Got 2 surfs.  I currently have that nice ache you get in the back and shoulders after a good surf and am sitting outside the van writing this.  I’ll have a early night and get back in the water in the morning . . . PERFECT.

Pitch under the pines